Tanning and why it matters
When people talk about leather, they usually focus on the grade — full-grain or top-grain — or on appearance and texture. But it is tanning that ultimately determines how leather feels in the hand, how it will age and how long it will last.
Why tanning truly matters
Tanning is the process that stabilises a hide and turns it into leather. Without tanning, a hide will decompose, lose its shape and break down. The tanning method defines the fundamental qualities of leather — from colour and tactile feel to durability and patina.
In modern leather production, three approaches dominate: chrome tanning, vegetable tanning and waxed leather (most commonly pull-up). The differences between them are significant.
Chrome tanning: speed, colour and mass production
Chrome tanning is the most widely used tanning method in the world. It relies on chromium-based chemical compounds and allows leather to be produced in a matter of days. It is fast, predictable and well suited to large-scale manufacturing.
One of the main advantages of chrome tanning is complete freedom of colour. Chrome-tanned leather can be dyed in virtually any shade — from pure white to bright, saturated and unconventional colours. This is possible because the chemical structure of chrome-tanned leather is stabilised and “closed”, allowing dyes to work evenly and consistently.
For this reason, most major fashion houses — including brands such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton and other luxury labels — predominantly use chrome-tanned leather. This is not about poor quality, but about scale, colour consistency and meeting the design requirements of seasonal collections.
However, this method also has its drawbacks. Chrome-tanned leather tends to hold its shape less well over time, ages unevenly, does not develop a rich patina and generally wears out faster. In addition, chrome tanning is considered environmentally problematic due to the chemicals involved and the difficulty of waste disposal.
I do not use chrome tanning. For my work, speed and unlimited colour options matter less than character, ageing and longevity.
Vegetable tanning: slow, honest and built to last
Vegetable tanning is one of the oldest leather tanning methods. It uses natural tannins derived from tree bark, leaves and plant extracts. Time here is measured not in days, but in weeks and months.
Vegetable-tanned leather has a more limited colour range. It is usually found in natural shades — beige, tan, cognac, brown and warm dark tones. The reason is simple: natural tannins interact with leather differently from chemical dyes and do not allow bright or cold colours without compromising the material’s properties.
But it is precisely these limitations that give vegetable-tanned leather its strength. It breathes, responds to light and touch, deepens in colour over time and develops a rich, living patina.
To the touch, vegetable-tanned leather feels firm, warm and alive. It changes together with its owner rather than simply wearing out.
I use only vegetable tanning, because it allows leather to age beautifully and last for decades.
Waxed leather: movement, depth and character
Waxed leather is not a separate tanning method, but a finishing process. It is leather that has been impregnated with oils and waxes.
To create waxed leather, a layer of wax-based compounds is applied to the surface, sometimes with added pigments. This gives the leather a matte or softly lustrous finish that changes in texture and colour over time and with use. Marks from scratches and scuffs can often be rubbed away with a soft cloth or even a finger, as warmth redistributes the waxes. This behaviour is part of the unique patina of the material.
Most commonly, this type of leather is known as pull-up leather. When bent or stretched, the colour lightens, creating an effect of depth and movement. This happens because the oils inside the leather shift rather than because the surface is coated with paint. As the leather is used, the waxed layer evolves, producing a refined patina — a natural ageing process where subtle marks, lighter areas and wear patterns highlight the leather’s texture.
Each DMS waxed leather bag develops a unique appearance over time, becoming a personal story told through use.
Pull-up leather is almost always based on vegetable-tanned leather. It is especially valued for its tactile qualities, lively surface and ability to age beautifully. Over time, these pieces develop a complex patina in which signs of use look natural and organic.
I use waxed and pull-up leather in pieces where depth of colour, tactile richness and a sense of genuine material matter most.
I consciously choose vegetable tanning and waxed finishes and do not use chrome tanning — not because it is “bad”, but because my approach is not about mass production or trends, but about objects that become better with time.
Good leather is not the leather that looks perfect today.
It is the leather that, years from now, tells your story.